Structures 3D model for printing: 102 results found

Displaying 1 - 32 of 102
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  • This low budget, easy to assemble printer uses as many printed parts in all places except for for the main structure. The use of 20 MM T-slot framing
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    Material List: Shafts and Bearings • 330mm 8mm Shaft X 2 • 350mm 8mm Shaft X 2 • 280mm 6mm Shaft X 1 •
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    Simple Delta 3D Printer Enclosure

    Simple Delta 3D Printer Enclosurethingiverse.com
    Simple Delta 3D Printer Enclosure This design uses common components from Home Depot or similar. Notches are cut out in the plastic and acrylic sheet
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    43286Free

    Ultimaker 2 Extended Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printer

    Ultimaker 2 Extended Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printerthingiverse.com
    Disclaimer: The "Ultimaker 2 Extended Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printer" is based on the "Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printer"
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    1103235Free

    LeXY - Core XY 3D printer - Laser engraver

    LeXY - Core XY 3D printer - Laser engraverthingiverse.com
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    M Prime One 3D printer

    M Prime One 3D printerthingiverse.com
    M Prime One is an open 3D printer intended to be simple, low-cost and easy to build and use. With the M Prime One, we have designed a 3D printer focus
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    Hardware list below! http://voidtyphoon.co.uk/ Original Credit to www.gcreate.com
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    613807Free

    M Prime One 3D printer

    M Prime One 3D printercults3d.com
    The complete description, along with the BOM and the documentation can be found at http://mprime.io/m-prime-one [1].[1] http://mprime.io/m-prime-one
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    Tiny Kossel 3D printer model

    Tiny Kossel 3D printer model3dsha.re
    I can’t afford a 3D printer so I made a microscopic one.This is a non-functioning 108mm tall model of the Kossel RepRap 3D printer. I deleted, simplified, reinforced and then shrunk all the 100’s of individual parts of the 3D printer assembly into one part.
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    Delta Printer (Upsilon 3D Printer) linear rail

    Delta Printer (Upsilon  3D Printer)   linear railthingiverse.com
    a two year project to create Delta printer. it has 6 machined parts and the rest are purchased or printed on another 3d printer. I have a 4 page bill
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    Ekobots - Prusa 3D Printer.

    Ekobots - Prusa 3D Printer.thingiverse.com
    Prusa 3D printer. Made with threaded rod, do not need frame. Just printed parts, bars, nuts and washers. Test piece video: https://www.youtube.com
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    Delta 3D Printer for Ceramics

    Delta 3D Printer for Ceramicsthingiverse.com
    This is a pneumatic extrusion based 3D printer designed specifically for printing clay and other paste materials, remixed from the exceptional work do
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    (C)ompact (A)nd (R)eliable (P)rinter Is the full name of this 3D printer. For a better overview see the video: https://youtu.be/BRPLkTFa2w4 Compac
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    X3D XS COREXY Printer

    X3D XS COREXY Printerthingiverse.com
    Article in 3DPrint.com http://3dprint.com/52690/x3d-xs-corexy-3d-printer/ Working area - 190(X) 185(Y) 140(Z) mm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l
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    Airwolf3D HD Series Printer Enclosure Panels

    Airwolf3D HD Series Printer Enclosure Panelsthingiverse.com
    HD Series Enclosure Panels. Shown on my HDx but will work on all models except the HDR, which is already enclosed. I wanted a way to keep heat inside
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    Hossmachine OB14 3D Printer

    Hossmachine OB14 3D Printerthingiverse.com
    Hossmachine OB14 3D Printer
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    88893Free

    Mini-Minion - the 3D printer for easy classroom production.

    Mini-Minion - the 3D printer for easy classroom production.thingiverse.com
    This is a Wallace/PrintRbot style 3D printer I designed for quick, multiple builds for a classroom type setting. I have named it the â€&oel
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    H Configured 3D Printer

    H Configured 3D Printerthingiverse.com
    OK! .......I was so very impressed by the initial design that ckaos initiated with his http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27202 , that I decided to take
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    Rostock Mini Pro by 3D Printer Czar

    Rostock Mini Pro by 3D Printer Czarthingiverse.com
    The re-designed Rostock Mini Pro by 3D Printer Czar. This machine uses twelve Traxxas 5347 u-joints, six 3K carbon fiber arms, and a planetary gearbox
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    Cherry Pi Delta 3D Printer

    Cherry Pi Delta 3D Printerthingiverse.com
    UPDATE 13 April 2014 I have released details of Cherry Pi II with many improvements incorporated:- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:298168 This is
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    Profabb GATE LE - 3D printer from U-Design

    Profabb GATE LE - 3D printer from U-Designthingiverse.com
    Profabb GATE LE KIT build area - 190x220x230mm. Profabb GATE LE on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnX8zkO0N2U http://www.youtube.com/watch?v
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    131630Free

    Wallace G1 3D Printer

    Wallace G1 3D Printeryoumagine.com
    *NOTE!* Updated Stiffer bed design. May 1 2015Based on the original Wallace design by whosawhatsis.With all the Upgrades I've added to mine.Rack & Pinion X & Y drives.Spool Hook and Motor stabilizer ends.Filament guide.Y-Liner bearings removed from motor blocksEnd Stop switch mounts.And new here, Printable Bed!Print samples added to images.White is .2mm layers Orange is .1mm layersOnly thing not included here is the Extruder. I recommend thing:40002 ;)Current print area: 200x180x200When I get the longer Y Rods: 200x200x200. That will come with new Bed Rear parts.BOM and Build instructions started at :http://gkprotoforms.ca [1]in How-To section.[1] http://gkprotoforms.ca
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    Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printer

    Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printeryoumagine.com
    ***About this Project*A celebration of the the Ultimaker 2. Completely recreated from it's open source CAD files, modified to be built with aluminum extrusions and 3D printed parts.****This project began as a fun way to learn AutoDesk Fusion 360. I started by importing the entire Solidworks CAD file into a new Fusion 360 project, dropped the frame (walls) from the printer, built 20x20 Misumi aluminum extrusions to wrap the printer guts and then worked to build brackets to support all the parts that previously attached to the frame.  I've been printing nonstop on this new printer with the same precision and quality as my real UM2. In fact, I can use the same GCODE in either machine with identical results.  *Bill of Materials*This list provides 99% of the parts you'll need.  https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oL7RYvvKJJkxDS52M6GQemwey3ny0b3jYZnxLergKKQ/edit?usp=sharing [1]*Build Instructions*A supplement to the official UM2 assembly guide to address instructions specific to this printer.https://docs.google.com/document/d/1iZN1Qa6s9Yto3foaHEdEPrx-5QusVKVUGyTJ6U6o7BY/edit?usp=sharing [2] All parts were printed in PLA, in Cura, using 3 shells w/20% infill.  I am running both the official and aluminum extrusion Ultimaker's  with 1.75mm filament. Ultimately it'll be up to you to decide what filament gauge you want to use. Often it comes down to what filament you already have in bulk. :-)   For that reason, I haven't included the parts to complete the hotend/extruder in the BOM. If you choose to go with the default 3mm setup, you can acquire the parts thru one the the sellers in the BOM. If you choose to use 1.75, I have included some additional parts to print and more info in the build instructions.  In either case, the knurled drive gear in the BOM will work for both filament sizes.  *Buying Parts  *The prices in the BOM are most likely out of date. Use the links in the BOM to find the parts. I had good experiences with all of the sellers I dealt with and found the parts to be close-to if not identical to official parts. This includes the 1.75mm version of the UM2 nozzle/heatblock.  The BOM has a breakdown to buy all the parts to build the Z-axis platform/heated bed _or_ to buy the official UM2 heated bed kit (which is actually intended for the UMO+). The cost of getting the kit is only $15 more when you calculate the PSU and lead screw Z-axis motor. There's also a small electronics board which acts as a relay for powering the heaterboard with the 24PSU and outputing 19V for the UMO. It's not needed, but an added bonus for a future project. :-) The kit is going to be easier... but it depends on how patient and adventurous you are.  *The Floor of the Printer  *My printer is using 1/4" acrylic that I bought from Lowes and cut on a 20x12 laser cutter. I sanded the underside to create a frosted look. I would have cut it as a single piece but the laser cutter was just a tad too small. This is why it's 2 pieces joined with 3D printed connectors and screws. I have included the CorelDraw file and the floor connectors.[1] https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oL7RYvvKJJkxDS52M6GQemwey3ny0b3jYZnxLergKKQ/edit?usp=sharing[2] https://docs.google.com/document/d/1iZN1Qa6s9Yto3foaHEdEPrx-5QusVKVUGyTJ6U6o7BY/edit?usp=sharing
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    1911Free

    Steel Frame Printrbot 3D Printer

    Steel Frame Printrbot 3D Printeryoumagine.com
    Our Maker Club started a discussion about how big a 3D printer could be inspired by a custom Printrbot R&D prototype we saw on Google+ https://plus.google.com/+BrookDrummpb/posts/Sytbbd7xxEM [1] . This design allows you use  Slotted Steel Angle Stock with 5/16" bolts to build a 3D printer.These parts give  you a lot of flexibility to build on a large platform - there are real physical limits to the size and shape you can build - its up to you to try out ideas, explore, learn, and have fun.I'm not providing build instructions for this - its not a kit - nor am I claiming this will build a better bot that anything already out there. This is for our Maker club to build, learn and enjoy.  We wanted to share the files online for others to try. Parts are labeled but you will have to decide how you want to build it.  A good resource would be the original printrbot build on youtube. you will have to translate the X Y and Z axis for this bot onto the slotted steel stock on your own :)Sources & Remixes:Printrbot Original by Brook Drumm: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/printrbot-original [2]Alu Extruder - to - Groove Mount Adapter by TECHGEEK: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:499483 [3]Printrbot Side Mount Fan by PaulRac: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21761 [4][1] https://plus.google.com/+BrookDrummpb/posts/Sytbbd7xxEM[2] https://www.youmagine.com/designs/printrbot-original[3] http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:499483[4] http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21761
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    Spatial One - 3D Delta Printer

    Spatial One - 3D Delta Printeryoumagine.com
    A video below shows the printer in actionAll information and drawings etc are also available on my website www.andornot.co.uk [1], i will be writing some blogs about the build and the choice of parts over the next coming weeks whilst i researched into designing this machine.*Specification: *Print Technology: Fused filament fabrication (FFF)Print Media: PLA, ABS, Nylon, etc any material with extrusion   temperature up to 300C except flexible filament (new extruder and hot end platform to print such materials coming soon)Build Volume: 270 diameter x 300mm height (diameter varies depending on single or dual hot ends)Layer Resolution: 0.1 to 0.4mmFilament Diameter: 1.75mmExtrusion Speed: Travel speeds of 500mm/s and print speeds of 80-100mm/s for draft, 40mm/s for fine printing, this will be matter of your printing preference.*Mechanical:*Materials: Anodised aluminium, 304 stainless steel, pla printed partsConstruction: Robust metal construction with some printed parts.Moving Parts: Preloaded ball raced vertical slides to eliminate any adjustment required and play. Igus rod ends and industrial bearings.*Electrics:*Electronics: Smoothie board 5xc, capable of dual extruders, with GLCD graphic controllerAC input: 100-240VAC 50-60HzPower Requirements: 24VDC @ 500w and 12VDC @ 15wConnectivity: USB and ethernet*Special Features:*Auto levelling: Aluminum heated bed with FSR levelling. Auto levelling of the bed using calibration functions built into the smoothie boardInterchangeable End Effector: Interchangeable end effector, currently with a single hot end, further developments such as dual extruder, chocolate printer and ceramic printer. 12 way plug and socket for easy swap between different end effectors.[1] http://www.andornot.co.uk
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    PowerCode 3d Printer

    PowerCode 3d Printeryoumagine.com
    The frame is thinking for you don't have to threading it.The structure has two bars to stiffen the joint between the frame and the axis Y.Easily leveling platform with three supporting points and only two screws to level.Tensioning belts on the X axis and Y. The X axis is directly interchangeable with any Prusa I3 printer and it's a great advantage.Front and rear aluminum parts to replace the threaded rods and improve aesthetics.This 3d printer has a long way in Spain, it was designed almost two years ago, I would like that it wil be knonw arround the world.You can see more documentation and the last modifications at the github:https://github.com/Mecan0/Code/ [1]Other interestings links:Assembly instructions in Spanish:https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz2-pRbzwDNWWjBjckh4Nkh5Yzg/edit?usp=sharing [2]http://lab.shuttl3d.com/imprescindibles/montaje-power-code [3]The openscad files are thanks to J Rodrigo.Leveling videos:A video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/e3o5o18xe726tea/2014-09-27%2009.07.35.3gp?dl=0 [4][1] https://github.com/Mecan0/Code/[2] https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz2-pRbzwDNWWjBjckh4Nkh5Yzg/edit?usp=sharing[3] http://lab.shuttl3d.com/imprescindibles/montaje-power-code[4] https://www.dropbox.com/s/e3o5o18xe726tea/2014-09-27%2009.07.35.3gp?dl=0
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    ###RodBot - 3D PrinterThis project started out as a small upgrade to a kit 3D printer I bought but ended up as a complete printer.It is designed around a frame of M10 threaded rods for stability, which is where the name come from as well. All plastic parts are printable and are made to be sturdy for stability.The weakest link I found in the kit printer I started out with was that many printed parts where mounted together to form a bigger part. I tried to avoid this by making the parts as big as necessary and only mounting hardware like rods and bearing blocks. This will of course mean more material is needed and the total weight of the printed parts is around 900 grams.The X-carriage was designed to fit a Greg's Wade reloaded [1] or my remix of Minimalistic Mk7 replacement [2]It's probably possible to use other extruders using the 50 mm hole distance as well.Some of the parts needed:* M10 threaded rods + nuts and washers* M8 threaded rods + nuts and washers* M6 threaded rods + nuts and washers* 8 mm Smooth rods* SC8UU bearing blocks* RepRap PCB Heatbed, I'm using this one [3]*Note:* Some parts might need to be rotated in order to print them.The frame blocks are designed to work with this Heavy duty Vibration damper [4]I have made a 3D PDF of the printer available for download [5]###Updates:*2014-05-30:* The Y-axis is now modified to use 8 mm smooth rods so that those are the only rods used for the whole printer and SC8UU are used everywhere. I also modifided the design of the Y-motor mount to be able to print it flat (prints faster) and tried to make it more robust. I recommend printing the Y-motor mount at 100% infill. The new parts are:- Y Motor Mount Rev 2- Y Smooth Rod Ends - Rev 2.1- Y Belt Holder Rev 2*2014-05-13:* The Marlin configuration I'm using with the RAMPS controller is available on Github [6]. I've also moved old compenent no longer used on the newest version of RodBot to an archive folder here [7].*2014-05-12:* Modified the Y ends to have a easier and more robust clamp for the belt. It is now easier to adjust the tension as it's just a matter of turning to screws. This also removes the problem I had with the plastic holding the belt cracking. The new parts are:- Y Smooth Rod Ends - Rev 2- Y Belt HolderHardware needed:- 2 pcs M3x25mm or longer- 2 pcs M3x16mm- 4 pcs M3 Lock nut- 2 pcs M3 nut- 8 pcs M3 washerSome photos of the assembly: Photo 1 [8], Photo 2 [9], Photo 3 [10].*2014-05-08:* All files are available on GitHub [11] along with some development and some old files as well.*2014-04-30:* I recently replaced my J-Head hotend with an E3D hotend [12] but I needed to widen the x assembly by 5 mm in order to fit it. The new parts for the wider x-assembly are:- X Carriage Rev 3- X-End Idler Clamp Rev 2- X-End Idler Rev 2- X-End Motor Clamp Rev 2- X-End Motor Rev 2To secure the E3D Hotend I'm using this mount from dmarett [13]. See the pictures I've taken for more details.*2014-03-29:* The fan mount I designed didn't work very well so I have now replaced it with this [14], which is a remix of this one [15] but with a slightly modified mount to fit on the two screws for the belt holders.[1] http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379[2] http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:251112[3] http://reprap.me/heatbed/mk2-231.html[4] http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:94279[5] https://github.com/hampussandberg/RodBot-3D-Printer/raw/master/Renderings%20-%20Images/RodBot%20Assembly%20Rev%203.PDF[6] https://github.com/hampussandberg/RodBot-Marlin-Ramps[7] https://github.com/hampussandberg/RodBot-3D-Printer/tree/master/Archive[8] https://raw.githubusercontent.com/hampussandberg/RodBot/master/Renderings%20-%20Images/Photo%202014-05-12%2023%2004%2008.jpg[9] https://raw.githubusercontent.com/hampussandberg/RodBot/master/Renderings%20-%20Images/Photo%202014-05-12%2023%2003%2046.jpg[10] https://raw.githubusercontent.com/hampussandberg/RodBot/master/Renderings%20-%20Images/Photo%202014-05-12%2023%2003%2052.jpg[11] https://github.com/hampussandberg/RodBot-3D-Printer[12] http://e3d-online.com/[13] http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:220811[14] http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:283862[15] http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30721
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    5247Free

    Adapto 3D printer (RepRap)

    Adapto 3D printer (RepRap)community.shapedo.com
    This is just a STL file showing the design.To get the most up to date parts go to https://github.com/rotorit/Adapto and download from there.There you can find RP parts that fits both 8mm and 10mm smooth rods.This printer is a perfrct entry level and novice level project. The RP parts are made so it is possible to use a large variety of frame materials. 20x20 t-slot aluminum extrusions, wood plates, steel square rods/tubes and a lot more.
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    https://grabcad.com/library/q-bot-opensource-and-ultra-affordable-delta-3d-printer-1

    Q*Bot - Opensource and ultra affordable Delta 3D Printer - OBJ - 3D CAD model - GrabCADgrabcad.com
    After a couple of years that I follow 3D printer growth, I picked up all the best solutions, as magnetic joints and prismatic linear guides, and gather together in this project.A complete 3D Delta Printer that can be built with about 200 euro (with electronics and graphical display, hotend and motors excluded).Printable area: 200mm dia and 200mm heightThe printer is based on commercial Aluminum "L" profile, 25x25x4, which work as structure and linear guides as well. It's steady, fast and easy to build.Here you can find related files, including Bill of Materials, CAD drawings and all 3D printing objects needed.I also added a smart geared extruder, with quick opening for inspection and filament changing.It's intended to be an open project: who wishes to collaborate with ideas and improvements, is welcome!Discussion and other details here:forums.reprap.org/read.php?362,479919
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    https://grabcad.com/library/graber-i3-mdf-frame-1

    Graber i3 MDF frame - SOLIDWORKS,AutoCAD - 3D CAD model - GrabCADgrabcad.com
    The Graber i3's design is uniquely suited towards building it with a laser cutter or even a simple CNC cutting machine, such as the Shapeoko. It derives from the original Prusa i3 design, and replaces all 3D-printed parts for completely wooden ones.Build volume: 200 x 200 x 200 mmAll parts are made in solidworks 2014 by original dxf files from Graber's github:https://github.com/sgraber/Graber [1]I've made a quick assembly which maybe will update it in the future.The names of the parts are random and have no real meaning. All parts of the assembly are in correct order but not perfectly mated.More photos of the project here:https://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/8660045414/in/photostream/lightbox/ [2]Information about this printer here:http://reprap.org/wiki/Graber_i3 [3]Assembly instructions:http://twelvepro.com/news/graber-i3-assembly/ [4][1] https://github.com/sgraber/Graber[2] https://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/8660045414/in/photostream/lightbox/[3] http://reprap.org/wiki/Graber_i3[4] http://twelvepro.com/news/graber-i3-assembly/
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    "AURORA" 3D Mono-Colored Printer - 3D CAD model - GrabCAD

    "AURORA" 3D Mono-Colored Printer - 3D CAD model - GrabCADgrabcad.com
    “AURORA” machine is a mono colored 3D printer has been designed using one of the addictive manufacturing techniques regarding the rapid prototyping process. This technique is known as (Fused Deposition Modeling – FDM).To review the machine in DWF - Design Web File:On Autodesk company website:http://a360.co/1HejvwG [1]Or, om my own website:http://engramikhalil.weebly.com/3d-mono-colored-printer.html [2]Concept:------------------First, and like all 3D printer machines, the CAD file of the part which is wanted to be printed to a 3D object is exported with (STL) extension. This extension allows the 3D printer program to view the part as accumulative geometric surfaces rather like the surfaces resulted in (Finite Element Analysis – FEA). Using the 3D printer program, the part can be converted to many tiny slices and then these slices are sent in successive method to the 3D printer machine so the part will be built slice over slice until getting the full 3D built part at the process end, as a result this built part and the modeled part in the CAD program will be alike. This technique, for the purpose of building implement, is count on melting a thermal polymer which pours after positional melting form the actuator head nozzle. The actuator head traces the cross section of the processed slice and builds according to it until the full completely of the slice section. The procedure is repeated many times to complete the part building. This technique uses another thermal polymer as a supporting material to fill all part gaps and to support the built part body is case of balance adjusting during the building process. After the building end, the support material is got rid of and we will get a part or a product built from just the building material.Execution:------------------In this printer, the thermal polymer (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene – ABS) is used, this plastic polymer melts in a Celsius degree between (180 – 220) degrees, and it’s provided in the markets as a filaments coiled around a roll, the used filament diameter is (1.75mm), ABS filaments substance has a color vary.Regarding the supporting material, the used thermal polymer is (Polyvinyl acetate – PVA), this plastic polymer melts in a Celsius degree between (180 – 220) degrees, and it’s provided in the markets as a filaments coiled around a roll, the used filament diameter is (1.75mm) and it’s often found in white color. The important specification for this material is the ability to dissolve into the water. Consequently, after building the part, it’s enough to submerge it into the water and so the supporting material will dissolve into the water and the building material will remain.Both of building and supporting material are provided to the actuator head nozzle by means of a feeding mechanism which consists of a feeder for the purpose of pulling in the plastic filament from the roll and then guiding it into a canal ended with the melting chamber which is in touch with a ceramic heater (40 watt). And thus, the material is melted and poured out through the nozzle which has an orifice with diameter of (0.5mm). The feeding mechanism includes a cooler made from aluminum substance to prevent the heat from transferring toward the top. The number of actuator heads and feeders is two (one actuator heads for building and the other one is for supporting). The heat exchange can be done for the two coolers by a fan in front of the actuator heads. The feeders are run by stepper motors (one for each one).Regarding the Mechanical Design Side, this machine has three axes ( X,Y,Z ). It depends for moving the actuator head along the ( Y ) axes, which it represents the machine gantry, on a motion method consists of a stepper motor and high accuracy synchronous pulleys and belt. The motion of the axis ( Y ) horizontally along the axis ( X ) is achieved by means of also a stepper motor and high accuracy synchronous pulleys and belt. According to motion of the assembly of ( X and Y ) axes, it’s the motion along ( Z ) axis upward or backward using stepper a pair of ballscrews. In all axes, guiding mechanisms are used; they consist of linear guides which are either cylindrical or prismatic. These linear guides don’t need to be lubricated like the traditional ones.The work volume or field for this machine is (30cm×30cm×30cm). (1.5cm) is added to each axis as a margin.Regarding the Dynamic Analysis, the inertia forces and torques were studied, and so the maximum and minimum velocity required to move the actuator head. Consequently, stepper motors were chosen, the number of them is like the number of the axes, these motors rotate (0.9 degree) by each pulse they get, these motors characterized with a high accuracy, the value of rotation will surely taken in consideration to determine the printer accuracy, the load torque for each motor is (4.4 Kg.cm). The building speed according to the ( Y ) axis is (150 mm/s) in maximum. On the other hand, the motion according the ( x ) and ( Z ) axes is done by pulses. The motion accuracy for the ( X ) and ( Y ) axes is (30 micron) and the thickness of each layer is (20 micron) as the most maximum accuracy in this 3D printer machine.Eng. Rami Khalil[1] http://a360.co/1HejvwG[2] http://engramikhalil.weebly.com/3d-mono-colored-printer.html
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    830Free

    All Metal 3D printer design - 3D CAD model - GrabCAD

    All Metal 3D printer design - 3D CAD model - GrabCADgrabcad.com
    High Quality 3D printer constructed completely of machined aluminum. It utilizes ball screws and linear bearings.This design is almost complete, needing some finishing touches here and there.I am not putting up the 3D file yet since it is not done, but I wanted to share the design to possibly give ideas to other people trying to design a 3d printer
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