3d printing 3D model for printing: 959 results found
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Its just another Deltabot 3D Printer, the most parts are fabricable with a small CNC. Design is hold very simple. New effector style. The Printer is 700mm high and is big enough to print with paste extruders.For more informations look at: www.cncprint.blogspot.com  http://www.cncprint.blogspot.com
DIY 3D-Printer - SOLIDWORKS - 3D CAD model - GrabCADgrabcad.com
This is the first idea of a Do-It-Yourself 3D-Desktopprinter for home use.It´s made out of wood and can be build by skilled engineers ;-)The X- and the Y-Axis are belt-driven. The Z-Axis is driven by a (ball-)screw.For the stepper motors i decided to use NEMA 17, because they have enough power to move all axes.If you have a small CNC-milling machine it should be no problem to build this printer.Download and have fun !P.S.: Not all required screws are part of the assembly, because the printer is in the building-phase, so please excuse this !
Prusa_i3 simple switch boxredpah.com
Solder Dispenser / Solder Spool Holdernunus-world.com
Solder dispenser for up to two 250g (26x63mm) spools of solder and six 16,5mm holes for tools or flux pens. The outer dimensions of the box are 106mm long, 60mm wide and 46mm high...I will not grant Thingiverse any rights to my source files so please go here for the Solidworks part fileshttps://github.com/KaiserSoft/3D-Printing Solder Dispenser / Solder Spool Holder  byprittstift  is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike  license. https://github.com/KaiserSoft/3D-Printing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:707023 http://www.thingiverse.com/prittstift http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
i3 Simple Spool Holderyoumagine.com
In the bottom, there is a hole for a M3 threaded rod, to increase stability and prevent the holder to slide apart. The hole is small enough that nuts shouldn't be necessary. You can drill the hole up and add nuts, so the width of the holder can be changed easily.It would be possible to make a dual spool holder with a BOM change.
Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printeryoumagine.com
***About this Project*A celebration of the the Ultimaker 2. Completely recreated from it's open source CAD files, modified to be built with aluminum extrusions and 3D printed parts.****This project began as a fun way to learn AutoDesk Fusion 360. I started by importing the entire Solidworks CAD file into a new Fusion 360 project, dropped the frame (walls) from the printer, built 20x20 Misumi aluminum extrusions to wrap the printer guts and then worked to build brackets to support all the parts that previously attached to the frame. I've been printing nonstop on this new printer with the same precision and quality as my real UM2. In fact, I can use the same GCODE in either machine with identical results. *Bill of Materials*This list provides 99% of the parts you'll need. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oL7RYvvKJJkxDS52M6GQemwey3ny0b3jYZnxLergKKQ/edit?usp=sharing *Build Instructions*A supplement to the official UM2 assembly guide to address instructions specific to this printer.https://docs.google.com/document/d/1iZN1Qa6s9Yto3foaHEdEPrx-5QusVKVUGyTJ6U6o7BY/edit?usp=sharing  All parts were printed in PLA, in Cura, using 3 shells w/20% infill. I am running both the official and aluminum extrusion Ultimaker's with 1.75mm filament. Ultimately it'll be up to you to decide what filament gauge you want to use. Often it comes down to what filament you already have in bulk. :-) For that reason, I haven't included the parts to complete the hotend/extruder in the BOM. If you choose to go with the default 3mm setup, you can acquire the parts thru one the the sellers in the BOM. If you choose to use 1.75, I have included some additional parts to print and more info in the build instructions. In either case, the knurled drive gear in the BOM will work for both filament sizes. *Buying Parts *The prices in the BOM are most likely out of date. Use the links in the BOM to find the parts. I had good experiences with all of the sellers I dealt with and found the parts to be close-to if not identical to official parts. This includes the 1.75mm version of the UM2 nozzle/heatblock. The BOM has a breakdown to buy all the parts to build the Z-axis platform/heated bed _or_ to buy the official UM2 heated bed kit (which is actually intended for the UMO+). The cost of getting the kit is only $15 more when you calculate the PSU and lead screw Z-axis motor. There's also a small electronics board which acts as a relay for powering the heaterboard with the 24PSU and outputing 19V for the UMO. It's not needed, but an added bonus for a future project. :-) The kit is going to be easier... but it depends on how patient and adventurous you are. *The Floor of the Printer *My printer is using 1/4" acrylic that I bought from Lowes and cut on a 20x12 laser cutter. I sanded the underside to create a frosted look. I would have cut it as a single piece but the laser cutter was just a tad too small. This is why it's 2 pieces joined with 3D printed connectors and screws. I have included the CorelDraw file and the floor connectors. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oL7RYvvKJJkxDS52M6GQemwey3ny0b3jYZnxLergKKQ/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/document/d/1iZN1Qa6s9Yto3foaHEdEPrx-5QusVKVUGyTJ6U6o7BY/edit?usp=sharing
3D-printable split filament spool with threaded joint (135 mm)cults3d.com
This 3D-printable filament spool measures 135 mm i diameter (Ã¢ÂÂ 5 inches). Fully winded it contains approximately 350 grams of filament (Ã¢ÂÂ 12 ounces). It fits shafts with a diameter of 16 mm or smaller.The spool is made of two separate parts with a female and male threaded connection. The design can therefore be 3D-printed without the need of support material.As an accessory we also supply an axel which can be used with a power-drill to facilitate winding of new filament onto the spool.The video above shows how to assemble the 3D-printed spool and use a power-drill to fill it with TPU flexible rubber-like filament.
Single Spool Holder for Prusa i3 - SOLIDWORKS,STL,SOLIDWORKS - 3D CAD model - GrabCADgrabcad.com
I printed a similar one for myself. I would suggest perhaps adding a slight angle to the bar so the spool doesn't ever want to fall off if you think it might, or just print an end cap and stick it on with acetone. I had an end on here but it means printing some supports, which I wasn't keen for.