3d printing 3D model for printing: 959 results found
Displaying 1 - 32 of 959
Yet Another Prusa Integrated Z-motor-barclamp MKIIcommunity.shapedo.com
Drop in replacement: ultimaker small stepper gearcommunity.shapedo.com
This is a simple longer version of chasmaker original smaller stepper gear. This one will not move on the axis and it is very robust.The picture shows it after 10 month of use and kilograms of PLA. No wear so far! It works very well with my big gear at thingiverse.com/thing:25501  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25501
Notched Bronze Bushing Holder for Prusacommunity.shapedo.com
I found a local source for bronze bushing, but they are too big for anything already here on TV, and they have a notch on the side to boot, so I designed a replacement. These bushings come off of various laser printers and copy machines. Might not be too difficult to come across when dumpster diving.
Prusa i3 Y-Axis Endstop Mount - 10mmcommunity.shapedo.com
This fits a standard mini mechanical endstop, clamps around 10mm threaded rod. This hits the X carriage that holds the heated bed on mine.Uses 1 - M3 + nut for the clamp and M2/M3 for the endstop.Inventor file is included if you want to modify it, I will try to get a STEP file added.If you need this for 8mm rods, let me know.
Tension Nut Filament Guidecommunity.shapedo.com
I added a filament guide, based on my tension nut, so I don't need to worry about the filament looping off the roll on a long unattended print job. The tension nut is tight enough that it doesn't need a screw to hold it in place though you can add one if you need it.The hole has a large fillet on both sides so the filament will pass through easily and the arm should accommodate various spools.You can add a small square of foam in front of it and push the filament through. The foam will clean off any loose dust or particles on the filament before it gets to your extruder.
The ruined castles: convenient hot end mount for the Ultimaker (drop-in replacement) - and an additicommunity.shapedo.com
I played a lot around hot ends lately, and even though my "banana" bushing blocks help tremendously (no need to remove the rods, pulleys nor recalibrate), the stock head mount is still very annoying to swap because you need to remove the X/Y small bars.The remaning of the time I am usually using my alternate butterfly mount: thingiverse.com/thing:159390 Still, I needed an easy and safe fallback to demo the printer with the stock head. So I designed this. It quickly slides in place from the top and the bottom and it has no impact on the calibration nor on other printer parts.Check my blog if you want to know better why I re-do some parts of the printer! tridimake.com/2013/09/design-compatible-parts-for-3D-printers.html By the way, I added a very simple but quite efficient passive cooling heatsink to the head, as shown on the picture. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:159390 http://www.tridimake.com/2013/09/design-compatible-parts-for-3D-printers.html
OSFA Filament Spool Holdercommunity.shapedo.com
This is a one size fits all filament spool holder. I have not designed anything to hold this, and I leave it to the end users to come up with their own creative ideas. All you need to do is suspend the rod from both sides, somewhere above your 3D printer.I would recommend that you keep the shaft as short as possible, in order to make quick changes.I know there are a gazillion spool holders here already. I honestly didn't search very hard to see if there were any like this, so forgive me if I didn't link to you as a derivative.
LM8uu bushing for Prusa i3community.shapedo.com
Son para la cama de la prusa i3separacion entre agujeros = 20mmSon un Remix de thingiverse.com/thing:57770  los cuales tienen la separacion de agujeros en 30mm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!--UPDATE--!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!31/03/14 - Mas espacio para la cabeza del tornillo http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:57770
Flex Coupling Limiter for Prusa Mendelcommunity.shapedo.com
If you have a Prusa Mendel, or other 3D printer, and are using aluminum flex couplings to attach your Z-Axis rods, then this upgrade is for you. These "limiters" will constrain your couplings, so they don't stretch, while allowing them to flex.The design fits a 5mm motor shaft, and 8mm / 5/16" threaded rod. If you need another size, post in the comments section.Print a couple, and clip them on!
Graber i3 spacers and washers3dsha.re
filament spool holdernunus-world.com
holds filament spools from horizontal tubing along ceiling.filament spool holder  by UWM_DCRL  is licensed under the Creative Commons - Public Domain Dedication  license.  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624287 http://www.thingiverse.com/UWM_DCRL http://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/
screwable y-bushings for prusacommunity.shapedo.com
This is a design of y-axis bushings without gluing.With glue it is a mess to change or to remove the bushings.Now at least the y-axis can be changed without removing the glued PLA bushings.For this you have to drill holes into the y-axis-bottom-plate.How to do this is described on: ifeelbeta.de If you don't have a 3D printer yet you can order some at: 2printbeta.de GreetingsBonsaiBrain http://www.ifeelbeta.de http://www.2printbeta.de
Beta Casted Prusa partscommunity.shapedo.com
This is a derivative work of the original Prusa 3D printer (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4148).The idea of metrix labs' pourable clonedel parts was good, but the parts have some technical shortfalls.So I changed some parts into a pourable and working Prusa 3D printer.This is the result:The parts are like a standard reprap Prusa Mendel 3D printer. Most of the parts are pourable just the way they are. Only a few parts have too long holes inside or the walls are too thin - these parts had to be changed.The affected parts: The XMotor, the XIdler and the 2 ZMotors, the vertices and some smaller parts like the barclamps and the endstop holders.The Vertices of a Prusa have about 2 mm wallthickness around the vertical holes. This seemed to be not enough for a casted part. So we made them stronger, but not as thick as Mendel vertices.The XMotor, XIdler and ZMotor have very long holes inside. We cut out at the side of the parts to split these long holes. Also the XMotor and the XIdler have large nut traps for capturing a spring.These nut traps have been separated to a second part. This way the nut/spring trap keeps its function while being pourable. You can simply screw the two parts together.The clamps and the endstop holders have an increased wall thickness to provide more stability.The major advantage is: All the casted parts have already holes inside!We developed a special casting technique in which bridges act as spacers for the holes. In most cases this concept works perfect.This reduces the amount of holes to be drilled to 10!The holes which are not pourable are the filament hole in the Wades extruder and the mounting holes in the small Wades gear and the pulleys.All other holes are already in the casted part.The second advantage is: To prevent melting of the parts we used a special thermoresistant polyurethan instead of Smooth Cast 325.After tempering the parts resist temperatures up to 120 C.If you want to get more information visit: ifeelbeta.de I also mixed a making of video: youtube.com/watch?v=tf-F0O9J1nA&feature=player_embedded A video about the thermal resistance can be found here: youtube.com/watch?v=V3zs0h04HIY You can buy a Set of these parts at: 2printbeta.de I uploaded only a few parts as stl. All other parts can be found in the 7zip file.Greetings from the lake of constanceBonsaiBrain http://www.ifeelbeta.de http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tf-F0O9J1nA&feature=player_embedded http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3zs0h04HIY http://www.2printbeta.de